I Love Animals

Are you a pet owner? Perhaps you take a step further and on one of those folks that has a whole menagerie of animals. Now the question is, do they all live inside a house with you? If your answer is yes, then you’ve probably dealt with the issue of flea control. This is especially problematic for those pets that constantly go from outside to inside all day long. Man, are you guys leaving yourselves opened to a full-time invasion of fleas.

Those pesky little suckers will never leave you alone once they have invaded your inner sanctum. They bounce around on the furniture and carpet in search of pets to nibble on. If you ever heard of flea circus? Don’t put one on for you, if you let them. What really stinks is that they can even go after you if they can’t find any animals. That’s why you have to get down and dirty with some all out flea control.

What do you do to get rid of fleas? Have you ever tried the bug bombs? You know, the ones that you place in the center of the room and they blow smoke throughout your house. Pretty nasty business actually. You actually have to leave the house for hours on end until it clears up, if it ever does actually clear of. If I sound a little skeptical about using this technique then you’re right.

The sad thing is that in my experience this method did not even work. It was one form of flea control that cost me more hassle than it did me good. At the end of the day, that nasty cocktail of chemicals gets all over everything. You have to actually wash anything that’s washable and went down anything else. It’s a real hassle. Fortunately there are other methods of flea control.

A short time ago, my home was invaded with tons of these tiny, dubious little creatures. I wasn’t going to play any games with them and decided to pull out all the stops. I wasn’t sure how I acquired this dilemma in the first place. It’s not like we had pets that went in and out. We only had one cat for Pete’s sake. I actually came to the conclusion that the fleas were brought into the house by us as opposed to the cat.

Either way, I called an exterminator for assistance. This was actually the most desirable form of flea control that I could think of. The exterminator came in, treated every room by spraying some kind of poison around the edges of the carpet, and that ladies and gentlemen was it. That’s the way I go about this thing. It worked like a charm. I mean the fleas just suddenly disappeared. Apparently they all progress to the outside of the carpet and die. There’s a real science involved with these guys.

Oh, and he also gave us a flea control medication to dab on the back of our cat’s neck. He really covered it all. In the end, I have to recommend this route to flea control. I guess the professionals really do know their stuff. If you are in need of further information regarding flea control, you can easily go on the Internet and find a ton of information. Get rid of those nasty, little fleas today.

We really love our dogs. This means that we spend time shopping for them and doing things that we feel will improve their health and well being. We seek advice and read books, visit other owners, make regular trips to our veterinarians’ offices and so forth.

As a result of much contact with other owners of sight hounds and dog trainers, we have learned about Martingale collars. These are fantastic collars that are designed for dogs who may easily back out of their collars. Sight hounds have heads more slender than their necks, so they have no problems slipping regular flat buckle collars.

So what is a Martingale collar? It is a collar composed of two loops, usually made from fabric or webbing. There is a large loop connected to a small loop. In the “relaxed” position, the resulting circle slips easily over the dog’s head. The larger loop is adjusted so that when a leash is attached to the small loop and pulled, the small loop tightens up, but does not choke the dog. The hardware connecting the small loop to the large one should not pull completely together if the collar has been properly fit.

Because a properly adjusted Martingale dog collar does not choke or cut off the air-flow for the dog, these collars are also referred to as limited-choke collars or humane-choke collars.

The Martingale collar is an excellent collar that helps keep pets under control and gives gentle guidance. We use them when we are taking obedience classes with our greyhounds. They are gentle on the neck and offer gentle corrections that do not hurt the dogs in any way. A Martingale collar is a great training collar for the easy dog.

Our dogs like to play hard and have a tendency to get a bit dirty. No problem. With the Martingale collar, we switch to a clean collar and wash the dirty one. We use quick links to allow us to change the dogs’ tags to the new collars quickly and easily.

Because Martingale collars are fabric or webbing, it is possible to change the look for the season. Your dog may be in dazzling spring colors or classic plaids or tweeds. Each holiday offers a wonderful opportunity to jazz up the collar collection. Yes, it is possible for a dog to have a drawer full of collars suitable for different occasions from formal wear to soft blue denim for a day in the yard.

Most people feed their pets on the floor, from a plastic or maybe metal bowl. Until recently, no one questioned this; it is not only the norm, it has always been pretty much the only option. New designs are emerging, however, that are a combination of new thinking in artistic design and product engineering. Pet owners are now demanding the same lifestyle upgrades for their pets that they insist upon for themselves, and creators of pet product are going high tech to serve their needs.

Ergonomics, the study of how best to design every-day items for comfort and safety, is now focusing on our pets. This has led to new designs for common pet products. Along with this, demand that pet products be attractive and compliment our home decor has gotten noticed by pet product manufacturers. The result is healthier, happier pets, and designs which are so refined that many are winning awards at architectural, interior, and industrial design competitions. And a favored place in many of the most elegant homes.

At the top of the list of new designs is the “pet dining table”. Using ergonomic principles, designers working with veterinarians came to the conclusion that eating and drinking from a raised bowl, with the head elevated in a more natural position, promotes better digestion, and is simply more comfortable for your pet. Currently, a large variety of these “pet dining tables” are available. Some of these are a basic stand or table with holes cut out for the bowls, while others are the result of very sophisticated materials and engineering. A terrific example is a collection of stainless-steel bowls for cats and dogs. Their feeding bowls feature a cut-out for the hand which allows the bowl to double as a scoop for kibbles, two rubber “feet” for stability on flat surfaces, a high-tech twin-loop “Booster” for elevation, and a non-skid mat shaped to fit the stand.

Not forgetting the feline diners, they also make an ingenious cat dish –flattened in order to avoid interfering with a cat’s sensitive whiskers. These stainless bowls do not come with a table stand, however, they are raised on four black rubber legs. A similar bowl is also produced for small “toy” dog breeds.

Another company combines high-tech materials with a retro look, making its way-out looking tables from extremely durable Europly, once only found in sophisticated European cabinetry. Called “Astro” and “Laika” evoking early space exploration, these tables provide the same ergonomic benefits, and delight the owners with their sheer artistic quality. Another European source brings Italian design to a variety of common pet accessories. The result: pet gear with a sleek Milan couture appearance.

With the pet industry approaching $35 billion, and pet owners having more disposable income devoted to the care, feeding and comfort of their well-loved animal companions, we will continue to see the development of products better suited to the well-being of the pet, and to the aesthetic tastes of pet owners, who are demanding higher and higher design quality in the products they purchase.

To locate the feeding dish choices mentioned in this article visit http://www.deanhenry.com, an online retailer dedicated to innovative pet products.

While walking in the street you found a stray dog. What is the first thing that you will do? Are you going to scream because it could bite you or bring the puppy to your home? You have two options. But what if you happen to be generous enough and took it along with you?

How you will take good care of a newly found dog? Well, you are going to consider two important things: to take care of the dog and return it to the owner or make its own shelter…

Any type of dog breed whether you just found it somewhere or you bought it from a friend needs proper care. In the first place, it will already become your own pet sooner.

Taking care of a dog is not as easy as it is told. It requires maintenance particularly when it comes to the dog food, shelter, medicine and the payment for the veterinary if in case it gets sick and a lot more.

Allergy particularly for the stray dog is a big problem. It is important that you know how to take care of a dog if in case it has allergy. Here are some tips that can help you:

• Check for some allergy symptoms in your dog. The common signs are sneezing, coughing, and watery eyes just like the allergy in humans. Rashes can also be major signs of allergy.

• Consider the season as well. Most often there is also a flea season for the dogs. Avoid exposing your dogs to allergens.

• Bring your dog to a veterinarian after seeing all the symptoms.

• Follow the instructions given by the veterinarians including the application of the medicines prescribed for the dogs.

• Minimize its contact to the possible allergens that could worsen the medical condition of your dog. Consider switching to other dog food if the doctor identified that the food is also the cause of allergy.

If you really want your dog to become healthy you should do all the necessary precautions for preventing diseases that could attack them. Proper food and a comfortable shelter will help.

Remember that your dog is also your company that can protect you from harm. In return, it should also be given enough care. Like human beings your dog has also its need that must be satisfied. Take the necessary steps for proper dog care.

Dog training teaches your dog how to behave and identifies any minor problems your dog might need work on. A trained dog is a happy dog, as is the owner. Dog training is all about properly communicating with a dog, and while it takes around seven to eight weeks to train an older dog, young pups can be trained in as little as two to three weeks.

Dog behavioral problems can be resolved through effective training methods coupled with patience and understanding on the part of the trainer. There is no need for physical discipline or strong language in order to adequately train your dog. There are many methods that make training a fun time for you and your dog. There are also trainings to make the dog useful for particular tasks such as guide dog for the blind, rescue dogs, hunting dogs and many more.

When training, make sure to choose a quiet and open place with not many distractions. Make the experience a pleasant one for you and your dog in order to make sure that your dog gains more confidence, stays happy and is well behaved. The tone and way of speech matters in dog training. For commands such as ‘heel’ and ‘come,’ use a happy and friendly tone. ‘Sit down,’ and ‘stay’ commands should be issued in a lower and firmer voice. Learn to appreciate the dog or puppy when it obeys the command by offering it some food or a toy. Take a little time playing after the training class. Try to develop a bond with your puppy or dog during the training. Avoid harsh punishment and maintain good endurance to carry out the training. By doing this, you not only develop a well-behaved dog, but also a faithful friend.

A shih tzu mother’s instinct to nurture begins with her first shih tzu puppy delivery. Praise your shih tzu mother through labor and delivery. Try not to express disgust, fear or overexcitement. A breeder’s expressions and emotions can have a deleterious effect on the shih tzu mother’s attitude. If you fail to offer your shih tzu mother adequate emotional support, she could, in the rarer cases, refuse care of her litter.

The first thing seen in a normal birth is a partial emergence of a grayish blue (slimy-looking) sac from the shih tzu’s vulva. However, I have seen many normal shih tzu deliveries in which this sac does not appear. If the sac is present, do not be alarmed, and do not try to burst the sac. This sac contains the first shih tzu puppy. Usually the shih tzu is able to deliver the sac containing the shih tzu puppy onto the whelping box floor by her second contracture or third strong contraction. Remain calm. Your attitude right now can prove crucial to the shih tzu mother’s acceptance and care of her offspring. Usually, but not always the shih tzu will deliver the placenta (afterbirth) directly after each shih tzu puppy. Some shih tzu will turn to eat the placenta first, then go on to eat the sac, tearing it from around the shih tzu puppy’s face and body. As the shih tzu ingest all evidence of a fresh birth, she will shake the new whelp still attached to the placenta by its umbilical cord.

Three events are taking place. First, instinct demands that all strongly-scented bloody evidence of a fresh birth be destroyed. In the wild, a fresh birth would attract predators to a whelping den’s site. Instinct prepares the shih tzu mother to quickly get rid of all evidence of the fresh birth. Second, the placenta contains precise nutrients vital to the shih tzu mother that help to nourish her during a time when her strength is less than optimal. Included in these nutrients are those assisting the whelping shih tzu to maintain strong contractures. Some breeders will contend the shih tzu should not eat the placenta or at least not all of them. I believe in allowing instinct to rule and I allow my shih tzu mothers to eat all the evidence of a fresh birth. If timing is right, I may remove one placenta. Thirdly, during these moments a shih tzu mother ingests the sac and afterbirth, she stimulates the shih tzu puppy to an independent life, toward breathing on its own. When the entire process is left to the shih tzu mother and assuming the shih tzu mother is abiding by her natural instinct, I have seen the puppies seem to become lively and thrive much better than if I have to help in the process. Not all shih tzu mothers do what they are suppose to do, and in these cases, a breeder must act quickly to save the newly whelped shih tzu puppy.

If the shih tzu mother is tending to the placenta first, you must act quickly and manually tear the sac from the shih tzu puppy’s head. Do not remove the shih tzu puppy from its proximity to the shih tzu mother. Once the sac is torn especially away from the shih tzu puppy’s face, carefully pick the shih tzu puppy up, holding it a few inches off the whelping box floor to make it easier for the shih tzu mother to crush and sever the cord. This action provides a clotting of blood coming from the cord and ties off the cord naturally. Allow the shih tzu mother to grind and gnaw the umbilical cord. The grinding-crunching sound heard is that of the shih tzu mother severing the cord from the placenta. If the shih tzu mother refuses to sever the cord within a few minutes of birthing a shih tzu puppy, clamp the cord with sterilized hemostats approximately two inches from the shih tzu puppy’s abdomen, and cut the cord with sterilized surgical scissors. Dot blood clotting powder on the cord to stop the bleeding (this is the same powder that is used to stop bleeding when clipping toenails). In some cases, you might need to apply some Neosporin Ointment to prevent infection around the umbilical cord.

The Old English Sheepdog is a lovable, even tempered dog. She is more meant for the country as opposed to an apartment. She has plenty of fur to distribute when shedding plus she takes a ton of time for grooming. As a puppy she takes up to two years to mature. She generally gets along well with other pets and children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Old English Sheepdog is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 65 to 90 pounds. The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and 60 to 90 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Old English Sheepdog is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), cataracts and Immune Mediated Hemolytic Snemia. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Old English Sheepdog has a profuse, coarse, shaggy coat. Much time must be scheduled to keep this fine dog brushed regularly. She will need to be professionally groomed occasionally and your groomer needs to train you in her daily or at least several times a week maintenance.

Her ears should be checked once a week and be kept clean. If you have her professionally groomed, make sure ear cleaning and inspection is part of the package. No water or excess fluid should get in the dogs ears, and do not try to irrigate the ears. Ear cleaning is too complicated and critical to instruct here. Look for hair growing in the ear canal, excess wax, or moisture. If her ears have a discharge, foul odor or she seems to be in distress and you suspect an infection, or tumor, consult your veterinarian.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Old English Sheepdog can live between 12 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Old English Sheepdog comes from Great Britain where they were used to herd cattle and sheep. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.

Some Registries

• Old English Sheepdog Club of America
• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

5 to 8 Old English Sheepdog puppies

Category

Herding

Terms To Describe

Intelligent, adaptable, powerful, shaggy, agile, lovable

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• Good watch dog.
• Like to hang around the house.
• They love children.
• More protective then she looks.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• Poor guard dog.
• Can be stubborn.
• Needs good obedience training.
• They may try to herd the kids or other animals.
• Barks loudly.
• Slow learner
• Slow to mature from a puppy.
• High maintenance grooming.
• When she seasonally sheds, she sheds.

Other Names Known By

Bobtail

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

As we all know, this subject is something that we cat lovers could all use a little education on no matter who you are. It is your youngest son’s birthday and you want to give him a pet that will be sociable and one that will fit in with your household. You decided that a cat would be a good idea. But how does one go about choosing a pet cat? Well, responsible cat breeders produce better cats!

First you have to do some research on the breed of cat that interests you, or that would fit your son or your family’s personality. Most people will give a cat one look and they have already decided. Of course, a nice-looking cat would be a welcome treat but the choice of cat should not only be based on its looks but also on its temperament.

Consider if there are children in the household and research what breed of cats are friendly and are easy to groom and to take care of? And then decide whether you would like to get a kitten or an older cat.

Once you have decided on the breed of cat, then look for legitimate cat breeders who can supply you with the cat you require. Try to attend cat shows and ask for a recommendation. It also helps to read the newspapers or surf the internet since most breeders have their own sites.

Buying a cat from a responsible cat breeder will not ensure you have a purebred cat but will guarantee that you are getting a healthy cat. You can also ask about retired breeders as they can sell at lower prices. Cats purchased from retired breeders are often better than kittens as they are probably already nurtured, of high quality and they can easily adjust to their new home.

Responsible breeders will not sell very young kittens that are not yet weaned. Also choose a breeder who will provide a health guarantee for the kitten as well as complete papers and registration.

Tips on finding cat breeders:

1. To get good cat breeders, make sure to talk to people who may have purchased animals from the same breeders as they can give you insights as to how responsible the breeder is.

2. Ask the breeder for references and go check on these references.

3.Check a cat breeders cattery list because if the breeder has lots of available kittens, then it may mean that the breeder is having a hard time finding homes for these kittens and the reason may be significant to you.

4. Make sure the breeder can give you the cat registration, health records and pedigree records.

A cat’s lifespan is normally 20 years or more, depending on the care it is given. Choosing a responsible breeder will make your cat not only healthier, but live longer. Find out more by reading our other articles on this topic and other subjects we have written related to it.

Grooming a dog with a curly or a wavy coat is not as simple as grooming one that has a short and smooth coat. For example, take the the “water breeds”. They are sporting dogs with extremely harsh curly coats. Because these dogs typically spend a lot of time out in the field, retrieving items from water, flushing upland game, and serving as all-purpose hunting companions, their coats should be kept short and neat. If not then their long and straggly curls will latch onto every stray; twigs, burr, pieces of debris, etc.

If your wavy or curly-coated dog is to be shown then their coats should be scissored into a neat shape, and this precise method of scissoring the curly coat takes a lot of time and work. Owners who keep curly-coated sporting breeds for hunting and as pets are much more likely to clip them down with an electric clipper to a length of about 2 inches (with the exception of the Curly-coated Retriever, whose coat is short enough that it doesn’t require clipping).

The following are six steps to groom your wavy or curly-coated sporting breed:

1. Before bathing your dog, brush out the entire coat with a pin brush and/or a slicker brush to remove as much dead coat as possible. This will also help eliminate tangle. Remove mats with a mat comb or coat rake, or cut through them with scissors.

2. Next, run a comb through the entire coat to make sure you have removed every tangle. This step may take some time because you do not want to comb too fast and yank out any hair from the skin.

3. Scissor the leg hair evenly, removing excess hair.

4. Cut hair from under the foot and between the foot pads. The foot should look rounded and should blend in with the leg hair, appearing like a powder puff over the foot.

5. Clip down torso to 2 inches, or scissor off fuzz and shape by scissoring the sides to tidy up. Shape the sides and rear to best match the shape of the breed. An imperfect form can be slightly adjusted by the shape in which you trim the curly coat. Make sure to take off just a little at a time, periodically standing back to check the shape of the dog. It is also good to have a picture of a well-groomed specimen of your breeds in order to have a better idea of the proper way of trimming.

6. After the bath, do not blow-dry or brush the body coat. Let the curls or waves air-dry naturally in order for them to stay intact.

Poisons can enter the body in 3 ways; through the skin, by being inhaled, or by being eaten. Because of the dog’s curious nature, they are usually poisoned by ingestion. In order to prevent your dog from accidental poisoning, you must keep all household chemicals that are potentially toxic out of his reach. These include insecticides, alkaline household cleaners such as paint strippers, shampoos, flea collars, batteries, and medicines.

Removing paint and tar from the dog’s coat

To remove either paint or tar from your dog’s coat, soften it with petroleum jelly or another similar product that is safe for human skin. Cut off any heavily contaminated and matted fur. The next step is to wash the contaminated area with canine shampoo or baby shampoo, then rinse thoroughly.

Poisoning through ingestion

If you catch your dog eating something that you think is dangerous, restrain him and examine the package or substance carefully for instructions. Contact the vet or your local poison control center immediately for advice. With the help of another person, give your dog hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting. Getting him to vomit will eliminate some of the poison that has already entered his body and will buy you some time until he gets treated by the vet.

To make your dog vomit, draw the hydrogen peroxide into a syringe or a turkey baster. Tip your dog’s head back and squirt it toward the back of his tongue. Generally, your dog will start to vomit within a few minutes. If he does not vomit after 5 minutes, wait for another 5 minutes and then try again. Do not give your dog more than two doses of the solution because administering too much hydrogen peroxide can cause potential complications. Also, do not use ipecac or other over-the-counter products that are used by humans. While it is safe for us, it can be toxic for our pets.

Do not induce vomiting if your dog has eaten caustic chemicals such as drain cleaner because the poison will cause a double burn as it is going down and then coming back up. If he got into something alkaline like drain cleaner, what you need to do instead is to give him something to neutralize the chemicals, such as 3 teaspoons of vinegar or lemon juice diluted in the same amount of water.

With poisoning, every minute counts. If the poison has already taken effect and the dog has collapsed, you need to take him to the vet immediately along with a sample of whatever it is that has poisoned him. Treatment is most effective if the vet knows the type of toxic substance that the dog has ingested.