I Love Animals

There is a highly important article presented by a Norweigan Shih Tzu fancier of which the author’s name is not given. It is thought to be almost certain, however, the article was written by Dr. Walter Young, author of Some Canine Breeds of Asia.

The article was published in Peiping shortly before the first Peking Kennel Club Show. The articles states: “at least as common as good Pekingese in Peiping are the Tibetans, the shock-headed long-coated little dogs which came to China during the Manchu dynasty as gifts from the grand lamas at Lhasa.” The writer continues to say: “it is a novel little breed,” and complained at that time, “no effort is made to distinguish what is quite evidently two distinct types, one considerably larger and higher on the leg than the other.”

These types of dogs described as being considerably larger and higher on the leg than the other were commonly bred by Chinese fanciers and sold in the dog markets on fair days. The writer placed these dogs as ones who must be in the non-sporting group, and admitted there was much confusion about the breed, and even in those days, was very inaccurate information being spread about the different sizes of the Shih Tzu. The article does confirm the theory regarding the existence of two types of Shih Tzu in Peking, at least as far as the 1930’s were concerned: one of a very small variety, in size more or less similar to the Pekingese, the other larger and apparently closely resembling what we now call the Apso, although smaller, and with shorter legs. The writer was also aware of many cases of crossing of Shih Tzu and Pekingese.

When Princess Der Ling came to Peking and shared her knowledge with the Countess d’Anjou, the full truth about the palace dogs of old began to emerge. Peking fanciers began to do their best to restore to the Shih Tzu something of the imperial grandeur which had been its birthright in happier days. The Japanese occupation of Peking in the summer of 1937 which was followed by the attack on Pearl Harbor 4 ½ years later, brought an end to their hopes and dreams.

Some very valuable information regarding Shih Tzu size and weight is in the form of a personal letter, dated May, 1955, written by the Countess d’Anjou to Mrs. L.G. Widdrington, leading English fancier and widely recognized authority on palace lion dog history. The letter in its entirety can be found in the American Shih Tzu News of March, 1967. The standard that was made out for France set weight limits for the Shih Tzu of 11-22 pounds. The whole standard is also said to have met with the complete approval of two other French fanciers from pre-Pearl Harbor Peking. It is highly unlikely either of them knew nearly as much about the breed’s history as the Countess. The available evidence suggest their experience of Shih Tzu dates from the confused period before the Princess Der Ling arrived in Peking to bring to light the full truth about the Imperial Lion Dogs as she had known them in the palace.

The Countess went on in her letter to make it quite clear that she was far from happy about the weight limits permitted. She had accepted them against her better judgement. She did not regard such a weight range as historically correct or even as desirable. The Countess’s letter to Mrs. Widdrington states: “Yes, I did think the Shih Tzu too big in England. They really should be under 12 pounds. In fact, there were two classes in Peking, up to 12 pounds (which would include our little 6 pound teacups today) and over 12 pounds were judged separately. They never had the big ones in the Imperial Palace……

Presently, the American Kennel Club standard for size does not regard the weight of under 9 pounds as being appropriate for the ideal Shih Tzu, and to be accepted by the American Kennel Club show ring competitions. This size is not allowed in the AKC show ring. All who love this size, must accept this fact as it is.

However, we must also face the facts that these smaller size Shih Tzu are the result of days gone-by breeding practices. It is not at all true that the smaller Shih Tzu are “sickly” or have greater health problems than the larger Shih Tzu. It is not at all true that breeders who produce the smaller size Shih Tzu are guilty of being irresponsible, in-breeding and line-breeding with close relatives to obtain the small size, and doing just about anything to get these small sizes for the sake of “more money.”

Shih Tzu puppies from the standard size Shih Tzu show ring requirements are priced at much higher prices and are capable of having just as many, if not more, health problems due to the fact that anytime animals are bred to meet a specific weight, look and requirement, a type has to be set in. Type is set in by in-breeding and line-breeding. Negative attributes, such as any health problems in the bloodlines are passed onto offspring just as the positive attributes of those that make a Shih Tzu beautiful for the Showring.

Our site will be dedicated to everything iguanas including tips on caring, breeding feeding and much, much more! All the information on this site is open to the public. So let’s get started!

The most common iguana is the green iguana and is easily recognized with its bright green color. Like most iguanas it also contains the traditional spikes running down the centre of its back. Most of you will know that iguanas are masters of camouflage and have the ability to change color to fit their surroundings. This is their only defense against some of their predators and they use quite effectively.

There are in fact 8 types of iguanas in total. They include the Galapagos marine iguana, the Fiji banded iguana, the land iguana, ground or rock iguanas, the desert iguana, the common green iguana, the rock dwelling iguana and the spiny-tailed iguana. Many of these are of course protected species as their numbers have quickly been dropping over the period of the last century, mainly due to the destruction of their natural habitats. ie. Rainforests.

Of course as you may well know, iguanas are also commonly kept as pets and are one of the most unusual things you might see lazing around in someone’s house. The thing that attracts most people to keeping an iguana as a pet is the fact they can be trained to live outside of a cage unlike some other reptiles such as snakes and tortoises.

Generally they are one of the easiest pets to take care of as they are very clean and extremely independent. They require small amounts of food and are prone to very few diseases. If there is one thing to look out for it is the fact that like most other reptiles they carry salmonella in their digestive tract that may cause disease. Therefore it is recommended that you wash your hands after you have come in contact with one.

With that said however there is a very small chance that you will contract anything too nasty and what difference is it from owning a dog or a cat, most pets carry disease and it’s recommended that you wash yourself after coming into contact with most animals. If you think an iguana would be perfect for you, then you can buy one from most local pet stores.

This will be the first post of many so keep in tune and remember our site - IguanaInstitute.com

One of the most frequent reasons dogs are taken to an animal shelter is because of their barking. Owners and/or neighbors cannot tolerate the noise barking creates.

When you are considering dog ownership, it is very important to check on the characteristics of the breed, you are considering, as some breeds are natural “barkers.” If possible see the parents, ask questions of the breeder and talk to people that have the same breed and get their input. Even if you are considering a mixed-breed dog look into the breeds that comprise the makeup of the dog.

Excessive barking can mean an end to a pet relationship before it even had a chance to begin.

Why do dogs bark?

Well, truthfully it is fun. It is also a form of communication. A dog bark can be a warning, it can be a welcome sound or it can be a constantly annoying noise.

In case you did not know it, dogs have many varieties of “the bark” from a soft “woof” to a very loud growling type of bark. Each bark means something to the dog. A bark can signify territorial protection, a show of dominance, or an expression of a specific need. If you can develop a good “barking ear” you will be able to understand the differences.

Why do some dogs bark so much?

Believe it or not, some of it can be traced to our own behavior toward our dogs or it can be a natural genetic trait. In many ways we condition them to bark.

Think of this, “a barking dog gets attention” and that is what most dogs want. The fact that we might be reprimanding the dog, matters not, as long as the dog is getting what it wants.

Sometimes dogs bark because they are uncomfortable. Your dog might be hot, cold, hungry, thirsty, or have to eliminate. If he/she does not bark, how will you know?

Make certain your dog has shelter from the heat and /or rain if it is outside, along with plenty of water.

Do not tie up a dog and expect it to be quiet all day. A tied up dog can get hung up on so many things and possibly hurt itself, besides being in one place all day is “BORING.” A dog needs physical exercise and stimulation.

An outside dog has many things to make it bark, other dogs barking, noise from trucks and cars, people walking by, boredom and loneliness.

To relieve the stress and anxiety your dog is feeling, if you are not available to do it on a daily basis, hire a neighborhood teen to walk your dog every day and possibly play with it for a while. Exercise is a great stress reliever and a tired dog will bark less.

Some dogs feel very needy and will bark constantly in order to get your attention.

To remedy a needy barking dog, it will TAKE A GREAT DEAL OF PATIENCE on your part.

Why?

Simply because you are going to have to IGNORE the barking and the dog. Easily said, but very hard to do.

A needy dog is looking for any kind of attention and that is why you must NOT speak to the dog, look at the dog or go near it while it is barking.

Yelling loudly or for that matter screaming to the dog to “be quiet” will not help at all. The yelling once again is giving the dog the attention it wants, plus it will think you are playing a game with it.

Hitting, spanking or beating the dog will not have a good result either. You will create fear in the dog and when it sees you, it will stop, but turn your back and it will be back at it again.

Once the dog stops barking, praise, pets and treats are in order.

This will not be a quick fix, but in order for it to work you must be consistent and ignore the dog, even though you might be tempted to tape his/her mouth shut.

Reconditioning the behavior pattern can also be done by having the dog do something different when it starts barking, like going to find a toy and getting a treat when he/she finds it. Giving the dog a “job” that takes its mind off of barking is the thought behind this idea.

Once you start the training process it is very important you do not deviate from it for any reason until the dog has the “no barking” thought firmly implanted in its head.

Granted there are times when you do want the dog to bark, so choose the barking behavior that is bugging you the most and work solely on that.

If you are living in an apartment and your dog is barking while you are away, there are several reasons for that and each one is handled differently.

Separation anxiety will cause a dog to bark constantly. Many times you, the owner, are the cause of it. If you find yourself worrying about leaving the dog while you are getting ready and you find yourself going through all that wonderful “baby dog talk” we have been known to go through. STOP IT!

What you are doing is creating nervous anxiety and upsetting your dog.

Instead, do not look, talk or pet your dog while you are getting ready to leave. Ignore your pet completely, don’t even think about he/she during the process of getting ready. Concentrate on work or whatever you are going to do.

Just before you are ready to walk out the door, get your pet’s favorite toy and several treats, put them in a room away from the door and without a GOODBYE, leave. Nine chances out of ten, your dog will accept the fact you are gone and will be quiet.

Whether you believe it or not, pets pick up on our anxiety and respond to it.

If outside noises are the trigger for your pet’s barking, try keeping him/her in a room that is not near the street. Play a radio with soft classical music or keep the TV on low while you are gone, keep the blinds closed do something to keep the dog away from windows. Use empty boxes on the chair or couch to keep your pet from getting on the furniture and looking out the window.

Now if you have a dog that for the most part is kept outside and its barking is annoying your neighbors. That is a wee bit more tricky, as you are not home to take control of the situation. I am not a firm believer in using things “mechanical” to stop a dog from misbehaving, however I know that sometimes, it is the only way to control an annoying habit, when you are not there to take control.

There are “ultrasonic outdoor electronic systems” that operate either with an adapter or batteries, they emit a high pitched sound that can only be heard by the dog and they stop when the dog stops barking. They are available for large yards and small yards. I am told that they are quite reliable in stopping unnecessary barking.

For inside the house or apartment there is another gadget similar to the yard one, that even allows you to use your voice commands to talk to the dog .

I would advise looking into these items, only if all else fails and you are at your wit’s end.

Solving the barking problem will take time and effort, along with patience and understanding. Try to determine “why” your dog is barking, if you can solve that problem, you are well on your way to the solution.

Exercise and socialization are such an important part of a dog’s life. A dog is not supposed to sit and be quiet. Dogs were created to be hunters and protectors, we are the ones that domesticated them.

Dogs lived in the wild in packs, they had loads of fun with each other, they obeyed pack rules and followed a leader. We are the ones that changed that and as a result we have to do our part.

We are now the leaders, we are the “alpha dog,” and that does not mean beat the dog into submission, it means provide exercise, social stimulation, proper food, medical care and most of all love.

Scientists say that every year minimum 100 pet die by toxic food and despite a recall of the products. How much do take care while buying food for your pet. Did you ever think that your careless can take life pf your pet?

Many companies have developed a complete line of diet to address all age, breed, and health need of a unique pet. Avoid all that inferior meat meal, cheap grains (including corn and soy), fillers, by-products, pesticides, preservatives and toxins.

All braded pet health food companies has created, tasted and produced a quality and finest pet health food on market and these foods are made easily available in the market and at a reasonable price.

Natural pet health food contains only human-grade, natural ingredients that are slowly oven-baked under carefully controlled conditions, resulting in a food that is easily digested, and has a high degree of assimilation of important vitamins, preserving nature’s goodness and minerals, other pet food is extruded combined with the very best and latest science on canine and feline nutrition, which is not as easily digested and requires the addition of harmful preservatives.

Always buy quality meats, whole grains, fresh fruits and vegetables, and complete vitamin and mineral supplements for you pet if necessary for all organs and systems of a healthy body to perform in harmonious unison and you will see that your pet more healthy and active then other pets.

A good health of your pet keep properly functioning body and does an amazing job at preventing disease and healing itself, and it our duty to give them required the energies and nutrients of a well-balanced diet. For all this you have to learn to look beyond our own needs, opinions, and agendas to address the natural needs of the animals that we care take.

Anna Josephs is a freelance journalist having experience of many years writing articles and news releases on various topics such as pet health, automobile and social issues. She also has great interest in poetry and paintings, hence she likes to write on these subjects as well. Currently writing for this website Pet Health .For more details please contact at annajosephs@gmail.com

Most of you have heard about, read about or seen the new designer dogs. Some of you are probably wondering what the hype is all about. Some of you think they sound and look kind of cute and trendy. A few of you may actually be in the market to buy one of these new dogs. You have heard all the cute names like Puggle, Schnoodle, Labradoodle and Maltipoo and you are probably wondering if they are purebreds or mongrels and why they cost so much. You may also have heard that designer dogs are healthier than purebreds, don’t shed and are good for people with allergies. I will attempt to address these issues and provide other information in the following article.

Designer dogs were initially developed by crossing two purebred breeds with the intention of producing a cross-breed dog with certain desirable characteristics. For example a Puggle is a cross between a Pug and a Beagle and a Shorkie is a cross between a Shih Tzu and a Yorkshire Terrier. In an attempt to design a low shed or hypoallergenic dog, breeders have crossed a variety of breeds with toy, miniature and standard Poodles. Examples of the “poo” designer dogs include the Schnoodle (Schnauzer), Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever), Maltepoo (Maltese), and Cockapoo (American Cocker Spaniel).

In order to better understand the concept of designer dogs, we need to know a little bit about canine genetics. Dogs have 78 chromosomes made up from 39 pairs or sets. Each puppy receives half of their chromosomes from their mother and half from their father. These chromosomes contain the puppy’s DNA which defines its characteristics or genetic makeup. Generalizing, this means the puppy gets some characteristics from the mother and some from the father in a “random chance” manner and the number of possible combinations is well over one billion. Therefore it is almost impossible for two puppies in the same litter to have exactly the same combination of chromosomes or characteristics. Purebred dogs were developed for a specific purpose such as hunting or herding by cross breeding two or more founding breeds that the breed developers thought would best contribute to meeting that specific purpose. Then over some period of time, the resulting offspring (usually first or second cousins) were bred with each other to minimize the “random chance” characteristics. Then over many generations the resulting dogs would start to breed true and have physical and temperament characteristics with minimal differences across generations and bloodlines. This new breed of dog could then meet a common breed standard and eventually be recognized by a national association. A current success story is the Silky Terrier which was developed in Australia around 1900 by crossing an Australian Terrier with a Yorkshire Terrier in order to obtain the best characteristics of both breeds. The Silky Terrier was recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC) in 1933 and has become a popular companion dog ranking 65th out of 154 dog breeds registered by the AKC in 2005. Not all characteristics of a new breed are desirable. Some characteristics such as inherited tendencies to specific diseases are bad and breeders try to minimize the chances of this happening by screening the parents before breeding. However this won’t entirely prevent diseases from being passed on to the next generation if both parents are carrying a recessive gene for that disease.

Now back to designer dogs. Designer dogs can be created by breeding two appropriate purebred dogs. The resulting puppies are first-generation designer dogs that will have some “random chance” combination of the parents physical and personality characteristics. Reputable breeders will have screened the breeding parents for genetic diseases and desirable personality characteristics. Prospective buyers should ask for the breeding parents Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) orthopedic and other breed specific test results and also the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for eye disorders. Many breeders will argue that first-generation designer dogs will be healthier because they come from a larger gene pool. Multi-generational designer dogs are developed when breeders have decided to concentrate on a particular designer dog. These breeders commit themselves to a multi-generational breeding program by breeding the same species of dog in order to standardize on certain desirable characteristics. Let’s take the example of a Puggle, where breeders may be trying to minimize the breathing problems of the Pug and tone down the Beagle’s single-minded scent following characteristics. Which is better - the possibly healthier first-generation Puggle which may have more or less of each parent’s characteristics or the multi-generation Puggle with more predictable characteristics? It really is your choice.

More important is deciding on the type of designer dog you want. Size, activity level, coat type, child tolerance, etc. are all factors you need to research. Go to our Directory of Breed of Dogs and research the founding stock that makes up the designer dog. The most popular designer dogs are the Puggles (Pug and Beagle cross) followed by the Labradoodles (Labrador Retriever and Standard Poodle cross). See our Puggle/Labradoodle page for more information on these dogs.

Note that there are really two types of Labradoodles. The first is the unofficial mixed Poodle/Labrador designer breed and the second is the Australian Labradoodle which has resulted from an exhaustive Australian breeding program intended to develop a pure-bred dog breed that will be recognized by the national kennel clubs around the world. The Australian program actually involves 6 different parent breeds: Poodle (standard, miniature, and toy); Labrador Retriever; Irish Water Spaniel; Curly Coat Retriever; American Cocker Spaniel; and English Cocker Spaniel.

Other popular designer dogs are the: Schnoodle (Miniature Schnauzer and Poodle), Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever and Poodle), Shorkie (Shih Tzu and Yorkshire Terrier), Schnorkie (Miniature schnauzer and Yorkshire Terrier), Maltipoo (Maltese and Poodle), and Chorkie (Chihuahua and Yorkshire Terrier).

Some popular designer dogs are expensive and depending on the area in which you live, you may have a substantial wait time. While doing your required research, you may find you would be just as happy with one of the founding purebred breeds for less money and less wait time. Even better you may be able to save a dog’s life by visiting the animal shelters or breed rescue kennels in your area to see if there is a cute dog available which will meet your needs.

Before I discuss the tricks used to remove matts on your dog I must emphasize a few things If your dog is badly matted or the matts are close to the skin I strongly recommend you take your dog to a professional to have him groomed. I also recommend a professional if your dog is elderly or can not tolerate being brushed.

Having said that let’s talk matts. There are certain areas of your dog that I would not recommend de-matting. Some dog groomers refer to them as the sensitive areas. They are located between the back legs, under the armpits, on the belly, and under the tail. These areas I would recommend that you clip with a #10 or #15 blade. One of the most common areas for a dog to matt is around and behind the ear. This happens because this is the most popular petting spot. The area behind the ear has very thin skin and can be very hazardous to de-matt. If gentle brushing does not remove the matt you can cut the length of the matt in half and try again to brush it out. To make sure you do not cut your dogs ear try holding the matt with your finger tips at the skin and then cut the matt in half. Now try gentle brushing. If this still does not remove the matt it may be time to use clippers.

Matts can occur anywhere on your dog. One way to remove them is to take a pair of scissors and put the blade between the skin and the matt. With the sharp side away from the skin you can either use a sawing motion to cut through the matt or you can simply cut it in several places parallel to the direction of hair growth. Try again to brush the matt out. There are several de-matting combs on the market. All of these work well but you should be careful when using them. Take the de-matting comb and comb it under the matted area. When it catches a matt, use a sawing motion to cut through the matt. Try to limit the pulling motion because most dogs do not like it.

If your dogs tail has matts you can use either method above to remove them. Before cutting the tail try to gently brush it out. If the matts are too extensive, either cut through the matts parallel to the direction of hair growth and then attempt to brush them out or shorten the entire length of the tail. Simply hold the tip of your dogs tail and shorten the entire length by cutting parallel with the tail. If the matts are hanging from the tail in different places you should be cutting them in half with this method. When you have removed all the matts from the tail and after you have bathed and dried him you can go back and even up any long hair.

If you are uncertain about shaving the sensitive areas, the pads of the feet or shaving matts from around the ears, some grooming shops will shave just these areas for a small fee.

During any dog grooming session you should praise your dog but especially while brushing them. Most dogs do not like to be brushed and they need the added reinforcement when they are tolerating it.

An editor I know offers his definition of a small business.

It isn’t a place where fewer than 250 people work, or where it is family owned and operated.

It’s a place where you can bring your dog to work!

I like that, and it makes me wonder if, every now and then, businesses large and small should declare it’s bring-your-pets-to-work-day!

Rural kids enjoy fests like this.

In Greencastle, Indiana, for instance, the younger set will bring tiny farm animals to school. It isn’t unusual to have a show-and-tell session featuring little powdered pigs shuttled in shoeboxes, and your standard range of puppies, kitties, hamsters, and snakes.

Well, we already have casual Fridays and other workplace perks that encourage us to let our hair down and team-build. What could be better than sharing our pets?

Our pets actually say more about our personalities and inner worlds than our kids, because, for one thing we can choose our pets, right?

On Pet-Day, we can have contests and competitions, such as frog jumping, and dog races, best and worst trained distinctions, blue ribbons and certificates of wonderfulness.

By the minute, I’m getting more and more worked up about this.

If it really catches on, it could become another faux holiday, such as National Customer Service Week, or Secretaries Day, though I’m not sure if automation and political correctness have nixed the latter.

Anyway, put a note in that suggestion box at work. This is one improvement that will make nearly everybody purr and coo.

Before getting a cat, make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for. Despite their perceived independence, cats do need looking after. Here are some things to consider:

1. Your cat can live for up to 20 years. Can you offer continued love and attention for that period of time? remember, as your cat gets older, so do you. They need looking after as they age, just like we do.

2. Where will you be in 5, 10 or 15 years time? Will there be room in your life for a cat?

3. Can you afford the veterinary fees if your cat gets ill? Yearly check-ups are the minimum and your cat will need regular vaccinations and should, ideally, be neutered.

4. You cat will need de-fleaing, de-worming and other routine health maintenance. This all cost time and money.

5. What will happen to your cat when you go on holiday or visiting friends? Catteries cost money and there may not always be friends that can help.

6. Feeding your cat will cost a minimum of $10 per week. Can you afford this expense throughout the life of your cat?

7. Additional items may be needed - a litter tray, bedding, bowls, collars, cat toys and special treats; have you got the room and the money to provide these?

8. Some cats need additional treatments- for example, a long haired cat may need regular grooming; is this a commitment you are prepared to provide?

Owning a cat is a lifelong experience. We all want cats to have a good home and a good life. Make sure, however, that you can provide that for your cat, before you buy.

Just like human beings, animals have emotions and feelings too. They need the assurance that their masters love and care for them. In return, pets often reciprocate their love by demonstrating various forms of affection to their owners. These may include making soft purring sounds, licking and even body contacts like rubbing their heads or furs against them.

Pet care is an important responsibility of pet ownership. Pet care requires a lot of patience and is also a way of showing the animals that they are important to us. Pet care will include feeding our pets carefully and ensure that they are groomed properly to maintain a good health.

There are educational videos on pet care, that is, how to maintain the wellness and health of pets. These include various demonstrations on how to care for the different types of pets and what are the attentions required.

For four-legged pets such as dogs and cats, good pet care will include giving them regular baths, checking their paws and ears, trimming their nails as well as fixing regular health checks with a professional veterinarian.

Sanitation plays an important role to the health of the pets and their owners. Bathe your pets regularly and ensure that they are clean at all times. Buy a set of dishes especially for the pets and keep them separately from those used by human beings. After every use, wash the pets’ dishes thoroughly with soap and water, then give them a final rinse them with boiling water.

It is common for pets, especially dogs, to have fleas. Their bites are irritating and annoying; and make the pets feel uncomfortable if the scratching developed into skin rashes. Fleas are also the cause of other more dangerous and serious skin problems such as allergies or dermatitis. As such, good pet care will include conducting regular checks on the animals and getting rid of the fleas.

Dental care is another essential part of pet care. Most canine pets need to maintain a proper dental healthcare routine. A professional pet shop owner will be able to demonstrate the correct way to brush the animals’ teeth. This will prevent gum diseases or other health conditions related to poor oral hygiene.

Products such as detergents, cleaners, fertilizers and pesticides, must be kept well out of the way in the house. These contain chemicals that may be lethal or poisonous to animals and should not be within their reach. This is another way to exercise proper pet care.

Every pet owner, especially those first time owners, should be prepared for the big responsibility of having and owning a pet, as pet care takes more than just skills and experience. Value the existence of nature’s creations and ensure that the animals are given the best pet care. Lastly, always choose the best pet products and supplies so that your pet will have the best nutrition and pet care available.

Ok, its raining outside again for the past five days. I want to train my young pup, but what can I do, I feel we’re both stuck inside and bored.

Break out the pause table. Or keep one in your living room as a continuous fixture as we do. The pause table is a magical training box that brings out the best in sit stays, down stays, “Go” and “Come”. Building your “Go Table”: develop your distance from the table in small increments, send your dog to the table as you move further and further away from the table, wind your way into other rooms. Follow your dog to the table at a distance, always staying behind him.

Get a second table so that you have two pause tables that you can use at the same time. Start with the tables about 10 feet apart. Send your dog to one of the tables, “Go Table, practice sit stay, you move to the opposite side of the other table, call your dog to the table, “Come Table”. Build distance by moving the tables apart and into other rooms.

Setup two chairs like a jump, but don’t use a jump bar. Have your dog go between the two chairs like jump uprights. Practice with your dog at different angles to the chairs and different distances. Use four or more chairs and have your dog weave between them. You may need to start on leash until your dog gets the idea of weaving with the chairs.

Practice your directional commands around sofas or stuffed chairs. Starting with your dog on leash walk up to the end of the sofa, use your “Out” command, with the leash guide your dog away to one side of the sofa, while you walk on the other side. Make sure you work your dog on both of your sides, sending your dog “Out” from your left side and then “Out” from your right side. Practice with different pieces of furniture and at varies distances.