I Love Animals

What Exactly Are Modular Dog Kennels?

Finding the right dog kennel solution starts with understanding your options.

One popular option among dog owners is purchasing a modular dog kennel.

Modular dog kennels are kennels that are pre-made to specific standards and almost always come in sections you have to assemble.

Obvious advantages of the modular dog kennel are:

a) Outside and inside construction options.

Modular dog kennels can be set up inside or outside depending on the area you have available for set up.

b) Better materials.

Depending on where you buy from you have a wider range of materials to choose from.

Modular dog kennels are made from chain link, steel wire mesh, high gauge steel, to welded ornamental materials.

c) Stronger construction.

The more elaborate modular dog kennels are available with welded wire mesh and parts to increase strength and security.

d) You’re not limited to one design.

You are able to adjust or modify the kennel panels to create different designs giving you more options on placement and design.

While not available from every supplier of Modular dog kennels this option is gaining more popularity among dog owners.

e) Affordable.

If you compare outdoor dog kennels or other options with modular dog kennels you will quickly find the option is affordable for even the most cash strapped household.

In the end modular dog kennels give you and your dog a lot of flexibility when it comes to your pooches living space. Whether you plan to set up an inside or outside kennel it will be hard to find a better option than a modular dog kennel.

Dental care is an important part of caring for your pet. Just like humans - dogs have teeth that can cause problems if they are not cared for with a proper dental routine. You may have already noticed, but dogs can suffer from bad breath just like humans can.

Your vet is an important part of this dental care. Ask your vet to show you how to brush your pets’ teeth properly. Your vet knows how to brush their teeth properly so your beloved pet doesn’t get gum disease or any of the other conditions associated with poor oral hygiene.

You are going to need to spend some time finding the right toothbrush for your dog. You can use a child’s toothbrush - but it is recommended that you rather buy a special toothbrush for your pet. It will make brushing easier and will be worth the money.

To buy a toothbrush you can visit your vet or local pet supply store. You might be surprised to see how many variations of pet toothbrushes and toothpaste’s there are. Rather ask for help if you are not sure about what kind to get. There are some rules for choosing the best brush for your dog. You need to make sure that the bristles are soft so they don’t damage the dog’s gums. You also need to make sure you choose the right sized brush (just make sure its’ not too big or too small for your dogs mouth). Lastly check that the handle is big enough for you to comfortably get a grip on the toothbrush.

You cannot use human toothpaste on your dog. Rather use a special high quality toothpaste with ingredients specially formulated for dogs. You need to spend some time choosing your toothpaste too. Cheaper brands might use ingredients that are harmful to your pet, and there are some common ingredients can make your pet sick. Read the labels carefully and check that the toothpaste does not contain salt, detergents or enzymes as these are dangerous for your pet. There is a huge choice at most pet supply store’s so ask for help and read the labels carefully.

Brushing your dogs’ teeth for the first time can be difficult; especially if they are not used to it. This can be avoided by starting when they are puppies - but if it’s too late for that don’t worry. The key is to be gentle, speak in a soft voice and do not force the dog. He must learn that it is not a big deal. Start from the back of the mouth and work your way forward in small circular motions.

If your dog really does not want to allow you to brush his teeth without a fight you can use a towel first. Try rubbing his teeth so he gets used to the sensation as well as your fingers in his mouth. Speak encouragingly and softly; you can even sing a little tune to calm him down. After a few patient weeks the dog should allow you to brush his teeth without any hassles.

You should be brushing your dogs’ teeth daily; but if you can’t manage that - once every second day should be fine. It’s important that you start too see your dogs mouth as your own. By doing this you will ensure that your dogs’ teeth will last well into old age; and of course his dog breath will improve.

Once you have purchased your new Pit Bull puppy’s crate and have it all prepared, it’s time to introduce him to it. To help make the puppy feel more comfortable, you should try to place the crate near you when you are at home. By placing the crate in a family area, such as a den, the puppy won’t feel lonely or abandoned when he is in the crate. He will be able to see you, even if you are busy doing something else it will add to his sense of security. It is important not to let the puppy associate the crate with anything negative, if you intend him to use it and be happy there.

To help your Pit Bull puppy learn to like his crate, frequently drop treats of food in for him to discover as he explores his area. He will understand this as a reward, and will soon associate his crate as something positive, not a prison. Feeding the puppy his meals in the crate will also help him in the beginning to feel more comfortable there. You should spend as much time near your puppy as possible when he is in the crate.

When your Pit Bull puppy enters his crate of his own accord, praise and reward him for it. It is best not to try to force the puppy into the crate, but to let him go in his own time. You definitely don’t want the puppy to feel as though being in the crate is a form of punishment, because he will not want to be in the crate. The puppy should not be left in the crate for long periods of time, as he craves attention and exercise. In the beginning, however, you may want to put the puppy in his crate when you go to bed at night to keep him from running thru the house and getting into trouble. The puppy may accept this better if you place his crate next to your bed so he can still see you if he wakes up.

Place your puppy in his crate for short periods of time at first, then gradually increase it. Watch your puppy for clues, don’t force him to stay in the crate. He should be able to spend a minimum of thirty minutes in the crate before you leave the house. Crating your dog for short time periods when you are home will help keep him from associating the crate with your leaving.

The Pudelpointer is a breed established in the late nineteenth century in Germany. At that time it was a common practice for the landed gentry to have large kennels of more than a hundred dogs and several different breeds and it was within this type of kennel that true experimental breeding programs could flourish. The Pudelpointer is the result of just such experimentation. The breed was born out of a desire on the part of the German Baron von Sedlitz to produce the perfect “all round” gundog. The Baron used nearly 100 different pointers of Continental and English bloodlines and several different poodles to achieve his goal. The breed was not established overnight, but in the end the result was very close to the perfection the Baron desired.

The Pudelpointer possesses intelligence, an excellent nose, persistence and stamina, water working ability and a weather and bramble resistant coat. In Germany the majority of the Parent breed clubs maintain a very strict breeding program and this is the case with the Pudelpointer. Stud dogs and bitches all must pass a rigorous field trial test which includes tracking a wounded animal, giving chase and putting to flight smaller game, retrieving both wounded and dead game, pointing and obedience in a variety of circumstances. Furthermore, health clearances and a “good” rating in conformation must be obtained before they can be used for breeding and the parent club also has the power to determine which stud may be bred to which bitch. All of this regulation assures that the breed will remain true to type and function.

The Pudelpointer is a tall hunting dog, standing 26 inches at the shoulder. This dog can cover a great deal of ground in a stride and the length of leg allows for fast swimming and retrieving. The muzzle is lightly bearded and the rest of the body is covered with a tight rough coat that is not very long with a dense and woolly undercoat. The tail is docked similar to that of the German Shorthair Pointer. The breed is recognized by the F.C.I. and C.K.C. (Canadian Kennel Club) and there is an active North American Club with strong hunting interests. Nearly all fanciers in North America are hunters and compete heavily in field trials and hunt tests. It is in these pursuits rather than conformation that most Pudelpointer enthusiasts worldwide participate.

The temperament of the Pudelpointer lends itself to being a loyal and highly intelligent companion dog for the avid hunting enthusiast. This is a dog that needs to be out in the field, needs to be performing a task and is happiest when doing the job for which it was bred. The word “drive” when applied to the nature of a dog, means an unending and non stop desire to please and to perform the requests of its human master. The Pudelpointer, amongst all the gun dogs, has an impressive drive which is prized by the hunters who have the pleasure of owning one. The Pudelpointer also has an attitude of willingness and a great desire to please and is also firmly loyal and faithful to his master and to his family. He is a fine housedog and an even finer hunting companion.

OUR CAT GOT OUT

One night our “indoor only” cat, Julian, got out through an open second-story window and wandered off. We quickly learned the next morning how little we really knew about what he would do and how to get him back. Julian is the sweetest, most adorable cat, but he’s dumb as a box of rocks, and we knew he would have no idea how to get home. We hadn’t thought he needed a collar, being an indoor cat, nor did he have a microchip implant with our information should he be found and taken to the local humane association or vet’s office.

For two days my husband and I walked our neighborhood for five blocks in each direction, asking everyone on the street if they had seen him. We put up fliers with his picture and enlisted the eager help of young neighbor children. We called his name over and over as we walked with a bag of food that we would shake. One of our friends brought a dog to sniff him out. Julian never answered and was nowhere to be found. It was like he has simply vanished.

Finally we found him about fifty feet from his point of escape, hiding in a neighbor’s garage. The garage door had been open most of the time he was missing and we had walked right by him numerous times, calling his name. In spite of that he didn’t meow and he didn’t come home. We figured it was because the home had two large dogs and he was frozen with fear. Don’t overlook a home or yard just because it has dogs that live there! Our cat was right under the nose of two so-called retrievers who never noticed him. We went back around the neighborhood and told everyone that we had found him. By that point they cared too!

DON’T FREEZE UP

Don’t fall into the trap of GRIEF AVOIDANCE where you tell yourself the cat is already gone for good; you won’t be able to avoid the pain of loss by saying it’s just a cat. Your cat is probably within a five block radius and can most likely be found!

We learned from the shelters and vets that any cat can become “displaced” when moved, chased or otherwise dislocated from its territory, like jumping out a window. For indoor cats, the inside of its home is its territory, so it will quickly feel displaced once outside.

WHAT DO CATS DO?

Disoriented and afraid, most “indoor only” cats will NOT come to you even if they know your voice, recognize you or your scent, or hear the sound of food being shaken. Their instinct is to hunker down in a concealed place, USUALLY NEAR THE POINT OF ESCAPE. They will NOT MEOW because that would tell predators where they are. This is not because the cat does not love you; rather, silence is a scared cat’s survival instinct.

SO WHAT SHOULD YOU DO?

Your best technique for finding the cat is to GO HOUSE TO HOUSE in your neighborhood, checking every area in which a cat could conceal itself, such as under porches, in bushes, under decks, up trees, anywhere small enough for a cat to fit. Ask your neighbors if you can search their property. All of ours said yes and most got out and helped. Call a few friends to help you. More people can cover a wider area and the moral support will help you. If it is nighttime, use flashlights as they will reflect the cat’s eyes. Remember: cats do not run away; they are waiting to be found.

You can also rent a HUMANE TRAP from most humane associations for about ten dollars. These are also sold at home stores like Fleet Farm or Home Depot. The traps look like long cages. Set one up near your home by a door and put kitty’s food inside. Once the cat gets inside to chow down, the back of the trap drops and he’s safely inside.

You should also contact the police and let them know your cat is missing. They are the ones who pick up injured and dead animals from roadways and can let you know if a cat matching yours has been found. Also contact the local humane association and give them a description of your cat so they can identify him if someone brings him in. Call them daily and make friends with the people who answer the phone. Write their numbers down in one place so if you need to call the next day you won’t have to look it up each time.

Of course, putting up fliers and placing an ad in the newspaper might help as well, but these methods are far less immediate than GOING THROUGH THE NEIGHBORHOOD WITH A FIND TOOTH COMB, ESPECIALLY NEAR THE POINT OF ESCAPE, AS SOON AS YOU FIND THE CAT IS MISSING.

Finally, don’t lose heart! While it’s hard to stay focused when you are emotionally distraught, remember that most cats get lost during their lives and most are found and return home. Unfortunately, lost cats need YOU to find THEM, not the reverse. You have to be persistent and determined. A methodical strategy is your best chance of getting him back. Our vet heard of a cat that was missing for 54 days, and due to the owner’s persistence returned home safely. Don’t give up!

The perfect parrot diet is being disputed for a good amount of years now, without any clear answer in foresight, as to what it could contain. The dispute revolves around the use of either natural food similar to that a parrot would eat in the wild or “formulated diets” or pellets containing all the nutritional ingredients a parrot might need on a daily basis. Despite the fact that we’re not 100% sure on what would be the perfect diet for our parrots, there are a couple of things that should be avoided at all costs.

1. Overly sweet or salty food

Giving your parrots sweet or salty food on a daily basis can be extremely unhealthy for them. Their digestive system is too frail to handle large amounts of salts and they cannot excrete the amount of salt they eat, causing it to remain in the system and trigger several long or short term problems.

2. Dairy Products

Some “general pet diets” state that your pet should get daily amounts of yogurt, or other dairy products in small to average amounts, in order to keep their calcium levels up and keep their digestive system working properly. Although this would be a good idea with dogs, cats and possibly other pets, these diets most definitely don’t refer to parrots, since parrots (well, birds in general) are lactose intolerant. You could treat them with a small amount of yogurt or small pieces of cheese if there’s really no other way to give them their calcium requirements, but make sure it’s not too often that you do so, or you could get your pet parrot sick in just a few days.

3. Shelled Peanuts

Feeding your parrot shelled peanuts is one of the most common nutritional miss-habits in bird care. A lot of popular diets contain peanuts among their ingredients, but they fail to specify that these should be raw, stripped peanuts of good quality. The reason why shelled peanuts are so dangerous is that they can easily produce Aspergillus Fungus, a disease that will cause serious problems to your parrot’s respiratory system. In addition, shelled peanuts can be toxic, as they produce aflatoxin, a powerful carcinogen (a substance that can produce cancer in animals).

4. Various other stuff you should avoid feeding your parrot

Among some of the other ingredients that should never find place in a pet parrot’s food bowl, we can include chocolate, anything containing caffeine and alcohol, onions, fava beans and any food that is high in nitrates. There are also a few restrictions when it comes to fruit, avocados and apple seeds being particularly inappropriate. Also, it was recently shown that grapes can produce toxins that may affect your parrot’s digestive system and although it’s not yet proven that they are as harmful (if they are harmful at all) for all species of parrots, they should be avoided as a safety measure.

As you can see, the list of restrictions in relation to your parrot’s diet is quite long, but it’s definitely easy to follow if you stick to the basic nutritional rules for birds. You should also make sure that any commercial pellet packs that you might buy for your parrot don’t contain any of the above restricted foods.

A Healthy Skin and Coat for Your Dog …

Does your dog always having a lush, soft coat?

Does your dog’s skin remain rash and itch free?

If you said yes to either or both of the above questions, yours is a very fortunate dog.

More likely, like me, you said “No”, or, perhaps “Sometimes”.

Most of our dogs suffer from a dull coat and/or a skin irritation of some type from time to time. Some poor dogs seem to be plagued by skin problems, which often causes them to molt, or even to pull their own fur out in an attempt to relieve the itchiness.

This can be caused by a number of things, including a vitamin deficiency.

Even if you think you’re feeding your dog an ideal diet, it may not be so. For years my vet complimented me on the great health of my dogs due to the largely raw diet I fed them, but little did I realise that down the track they would begin to develop degenerative conditions which I can now only attribute to a failure to supplement with vitamins and/or balanced holistic food.

Yes, diet can impact on your dog’s skin condition and the look and feel of your dog’s coat in a big way.

And fleas also, of course, can cause major skin irritation for your dog.

But for now, back to the external, and non-parasitic, causes of an irritated, dry or itchy skin.

Kara, my Rottweiler, has pretty sensitive skin - she gets a rash from coming into contact with the pollen from certain plants.

My Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Jet, is more hardy in the coat and skin department. Jet’s pretty lucky. She doesn’t get incessant itches very often at all, although she has been known to molt once or twice in her 9 years.

To keep your dog’s skin and coat in tip top condition and health, a good dog shampoo is really important. When my dogs were younger I sometimes used cheap shampoos from discount stores. I came to the conclusion that this was really false economy. They cleaned the coat reasonably well, but weren’t particularly beneficial to the skin.

Now I use an all-natural, enriched shampoo which helps relieve itching and dry, flaky skin. And the coat comes out really silky and it really seems to have a lovely shine. And it has a tearless formula, so it’s kind to your dog’s eyes! If you’d like to check it out, you’ll find the details by clicking here: http://www.DogShampoo.BrigitteRecommends.com

If your dog is anything like my Rottweiler, Kara, your dog’s fur is often dusty and not so great to stroke. Kara loves rolling in the dirt outside. When the dirt in the backyard is dry, I can brush out the dust and dirt without too much trouble.

But when it’s damp Kara needs to be washed to really get her coat clean again. And when it’s been pouring rain for a day or two, I actually try to keep her inside the house as much as possible. Because, yes, she rolls in the wet, sticky mud, when she gets a chance. You should see the mess she gets in. She can be covered in mud from head to toe. And she’s most put out when I won’t let her in the house in that state!

That’s when the shampoo really comes in handy! That link again is: http://www.DogShampoo.BrigitteRecommends.com

(c) 2005, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs